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Bistroy Les Papilles, Paris


I can't say that I become obsessed with some places, infatuated is a better word.  So, the new focus of my infatuation is Les Papilles, a wonderful bistro about a ten-minute walk from the Luxembourg Gardens.  This is a very popular restaurant that somehow flew under my radar.  Reservations are a must and lunch or an earlier dinner is much easier to book than a dinner after 8pm.  My first time at Les Papilles was with my mom, and after the first spoonful of the delicious broccoli soup, I decided to book another lunch for when I would be in Paris about a month and a half later and this time with my husband.  

The owner, Bertrand Bluy's mission is to "serve beautiful products, prepared simply, and paired with good wine".  Well, he accomplishes that quite nicely.  This is an unforgettable meal in my opinion.


We were first to arrive for lunch hence the empty tables, but the place filled up within minutes of me taking these photos.




I loved the comfortable and seemingly old world ambiance of Les Papilles; the large bar gracefully showing its age, the colorful mosaic floors, and old posters on the walls.  You can sneak a peak into the small kitchen and marvel how they can so skillfully feed so many while working in such tight quarters.


Les Papilles also serves as a wine bar/shop, and an epicerie.  One entire side of the bistro is nothing but shelves filled with bottles of wine and some fine gastronomic products like: spices, pates, sardines, gourmet olive oil, etc.


The wine prices have a wide range and there is a 7 euro corkage fee.


 There is a single prix-fixe, fresh market menu comprising of a soup, main course, cheese plate, and a dessert.  The fact that everyone is eating the same thing, gives the bistro a lovely homey feeling.  Sort of like visiting family - culinarily gifted family that is.  There is a small chalkboard at the bar that shows the daily menu, but the waiters describe (in English if you'd like) each dish as they bring it out.



Mom started it off with a glass of Corbieres wine.


This dish was the beginning of my love affair with Les Papilles.  The waiter placed a soup bowl in front of me with a mound of shredded broccoli, smoked bacon, chives, croutons, cream, and some espelette sprinkled around.  I have been introduced to espelette a couple of years ago while taking a class at the Alain Ducasse's Ecole de Cuisine.  It is a lovely chili pepper condiment very popular in France, and I'm sure everywhere else but it was new to me.


We got to ladle out the soup ourselves out of the large tureen which was left on the table.




This soup was nothing but heaven; silky smooth, delicious, creamy, and the bacon, croutons and shredded veggies added a wonderful crunch.


The main entree, a lamb shoulder with veggies, arrived in a nice copper gratin pan.


The meat was fork-tender, succulent and just amazing, and the vegetables were perfectly cooked and flavorful.


Mom got the cheese wedge which was paired with a poached prune.


I'm not a huge fan of the more potent cheese, so the waiter offered me a salad.


Our dessert was a cup of panna cotta with a strawberry puree.


It was simple, yet utterly delicious.



This was the menu when I visited Les Papilles for the second time.


The soup was a velvety cream of zucchini, curry, parsley, bacon, chive, and croutons.






The main course was a wonderful beef braised in red wine with snow peas, peppers, potatoes, garlic, onions and thyme.


Not only gorgeous but also delicious.



I mean..... can it get any better than this?


My husband enjoyed the cheese which was Fourme d'Ambert - semi-hard blue cheese.  I've read that the Fourme d'Ambert is one of France's oldest cheeses, dating back to Roman times.


This time I declined the salad and enjoyed a few minute reprieve from eating.


The lovely and smooth panna cotta arrived for dessert, but this time there were some chunks of strawberry among the puree.


The portions at Les Papilles are very generous, and spectacular. Fully satisfied, my husband and I strolled over to the Luxembourg Gardens, and sat around for about an hour, savoring a wonderful afternoon.

Les Papilles
30 rue, Gay-Lussac
Tuesday-Saturday - 12pm -2pm  and 7pm-10:30pm
Closed Monday and Sunday

Joanna


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