I know, I know, it's a cliche. Les Deux Magots to some might seem like a tourist trap, and dining here might be akin to wearing a beret while carrying a baguette. But I can't help it, while this is not THE place for that memorable culinary experience, it is so much fun to sit here, have a snack, breakfast, or dinner, and watch the world go by. This is people watching of the highest caliber.
Every city has that one special place -- ok, maybe a few special places. Places that have not only a great historical or cultural significance, but are also beloved by the locals and visitors alike. Les Deux Magots, located on the busy Boulevard Saint Germain is such a place.
Les Deux Magots opened in 1812 at 23 rue de Buci as a novelty and fabric shop. The shop's name was inspired by a play titled Les Deux Magots de la Chine, and the two statues which represent Chinese magicians still look over the main dining room. The business was relocated to its current location in 1873 and in 1884 it became a cafe. It soon turned into one of favorite rendezvous spots for the intellectual, literary, and artistic elite of the city. Some of the patrons included Sartre, Picasso, Camus, Beauvoir, Joyce, Julia Child, and Hemingway who used the cafe as a setting for "The Sun Also Rises".
Dining inside is lovely on a rainy day, one almost feels inspired to grab a piece of paper and start writing that great novel we all have inside us.
I love to sit at the street side tables, yes people will be blowing smoke in your face, but I feel that I get all the fresh air I need in New York, so a bit of inhaling won't be an issue.
The waiters in black jackets and floor length aprons are courteous and pleasant; they will allow you to nurse your cup of coffee for as long as you'd like.
Besides the seating area right outside of the restaurant there is a beautiful terrace a few feet away. We enjoyed a dinner here, even though my husband was disappointed that due to the hedges, he couldn't enjoy people watching.
I remained true to my foie gras obsession.
I cannot remember what fish this was but it was very good.
Our cousin ordered the gravlox salmon fillet with potato salad.
Since I wanted something lighter, hmmmm, I got this delicious Deux Magots' salad. I picked out all the cheese to save some calories but ate both rolls with butter, so go figure.
The dessert tray presented to us was very tempting, it featured some house made pastries and a few delicacies from Pierre Herme who has a patisserie a short walk away. We ended up skipping the dessert; I had a fridge full of pastries at the apartment.
Although the dinner was decent, breakfast at Les Deux Magots is wonderful and it has become our tradition before heading to the airport.
Yes, I ate that entire baguette with butter and jam; I would have eaten three more had it been placed in front of me. There is something so romantic and wonderfully Parisian about slowly sipping tea, spreading butter and jam on a chunk of a freshly baked baguette, while seated at a lovely sidewalk cafe with a great old world vibe.
Les Deux Magot
6 Place Saint-Germain-des -Pres
open 7:30 - 1am daily
Joanna
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