Bordier Butter - The Best Butter in France

France is in the midst of a butter shortage!  Due to a decrease in milk production and a substantial demand for French pastries all over the world (mainly China and the Middle East), the price of butter has increased by 60% in one year.  The French are stocking up and thus creating shortages.  French newspapers are publishing articles titled "A guide to cooking without butter".  So, with hopes that the shortages are temporary, here is my ode to the best butter in the world.  I'm not kidding.  The. Best. Butter. In. The. World.

Mr. Bordier, a grandson and a son of cheese mongers, became a butter artisan in 1985.  He acquired a creamery originally founded in 1927.  The supreme taste of the Bordier butter was first recognized by a chef from the Plaza Athenee while vacationing in Brittany, a beautiful region in northwestern France.

Bordier is the lone butter master to still use the old method of kneading the butter according to the 19th century traditions.  He uses a wooden device called the malaxeur, which grinds the churned butterfat particles at super slow speed, resulting in a terrifically smooth product.  The salt is added when the butter is sufficiently silky and elastic.  After kneading it to allow the incorporation of the salt till it "sweats" a bit, the butter is ready to be shaped, which is done by hand.  The butter chunks are formed using two ridged wooden paddles, and each movement seems to have been perfected over years of training.  The butter that will be sold in stores is formed into a rectangular shape, and the butter which will be delivered to restaurants is shaped or even embossed according to the wishes of each particular establishment. 


How wonderful would it be to begin each day with a fresh Bordier butter in the fridge?  Why am I not living in a country where Bordier butter is readily available?

This is the butter section at Le Grande Epicerie, my favorite food store in Paris, and one of the few places selling Bordier butter in the city.

There are about 13 flavors of Bordier butter in production: semi-salted, 4% salt, plain, seaweed, chili, garlic with fresh herbs, lemon with olive oil, yuzu, buckwheat, raspberry, sweet Madagascar vanilla, fennel, and a brand new flavor - chocolate with Venezuela cacao bean chips - kill me now!

My favorite is the Demi-Sel - semi-salted butter.

This is the semi-salted butter in all its glory.  It has a rich taste, a hint of salt, a beautiful color, it does not get rock hard, and it tastes like heaven

The color of the butter varies according to what the cows eat during different seasons.  The deep yellow color is due to the rich summer grass and flowers, while the winter butter is muted and ivory.

According to Monsieur Bordier there are four factors that impact the quality of butter:
-The soil - grass, sun, rain etc.
-The animal - the cow's food, and place where it lives.
-The dexterity - the movements used by the butter master while churning or kneading the butter
-The season

And of course the best butter must be paired with a top quality baguette, like this one from Du Pain et Des Idees.

I sneak a few bars of butter in my suitcases, wrapped in tinfoil and in a plastic container.  I have a cool bag with some ice for the taxi drive to the airport and place the butter container into the suitcase prior to checking it in.  The butter survives the flight nicely, and is quickly put into the fridge at home.

While still in Paris I tasted this raspberry butter which was a revelation.
I have learned that Monsieur Bordier recommends placing a pat of butter on the bread instead of spreading it with a knife, which can alter the butter's texture.  I have been doing it wrong my entire life!!  I guess the photo below is an example of what NOT to do:)

I got the buckwheat butter since I can't say no to anything that says Bordier and buckwheat on the same label.

Lemon and olive oil.

Garlic, fresh herbs and Sichuan pepper.

   Smoked salt.

Bordier butter is featured in many photographs I have taken while in Paris, and it's treated like gold bullion once I get it to NY.  My next visit to Paris will include a side trip to the Bordier shop and bistro in St. Malo.  I just need to find a good size cooler at Monoprix. 

I also love these sardines which happily swim in Bordier butter.  All I have to do is plop them on a hot skilled, wait a couple of minutes, and enjoy them with a slice of hearty bread.

 This lovely caramel spread goes great with pretzels, chocolate, crepes, fruit etc.

Bordier also produces cheeses, yogurts, caramels, caramel spreads etc.

I buy the butter at:
Le Grande Epicerie - 38 rue de Sevres
L'Epicerie Breizh Cafe - 111 rue du Vieille du Temple
DaRosa - 62 rue de Seine

Joanna